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La Cococciola, the other Abruzzo white

White wines | In Abruzzo there is a white berried grape with an unusual name and still little known, but with interesting potential

Michael Cerrato di Michael Cerrato
30 January 2021
in Wines, White wines
Reading time: 4 minutes of reading
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cococciola grapesFor those who hang out a bit in the world of wine, two things are certain! The first is that Italy has a truly incredible ampelographic heritage. The second is that our native vines sometimes take on the strangest and most unlikely names. And the peculiarity of some names makes you curious and pushes you to learn more.

This is the case, for example, of the Coconut, white berried grape with a name that makes you smile, of uncertain origins, but always present in Abruzzo territory. An almost unknown and not very widespread vine, just think that it is found only in the province of dogi, in some areas of the province of Teramo and in north of Puglia, where it probably arrived as a result of transhumance. Also known as Cacciola or Cocacciara, the Cococciola remains shrouded in the fumes of mystery also regarding the genesis of its name, which plausibly may have an onomatopoeic derivation. cococciola harvest

The feature that distinguishes it is its own marked freshness, which is why over the years it has always been used as a blending grape in blending with Trebbiano in order to increase its acidity. The work of some producers, who have begun to experiment with its vinification in purity, led to the birth of the appellation in 2010 Abruzzo Cococciola DOC, whose disciplinary provides for both the still version and the sparkling version. In particular, for the still version it is expected that at least 85% of Cococciola is used, while for the Spumante version it is necessary that there be at least 60%. tollo cococciola cellar

It is a vine, traditionally bred with the system of Abruzzo pergola, very productive, both in terms of the quantity of grapes obtained and the quantity of must obtained from them. The clusters are decidedly compact, with round and large berries, with a thick and pruinose skin and characterized by the presence of streaks or brown spots. Usually one is preferred vinification in steel and the wine produced from it is straw yellow in color with greenish reflections. On the nose there are delicate hints of white pulp fruit and citrus, floral, sometimes herbaceous and almond notes. The sip is pleasant and characterized by flavor, minerality has always been interesting acidity which refers to fresh citrine hints and which make this grape perfect for being sparkling. And if you want to try it, you can't help but start from Cantina Tollo, a historical Abruzzo company founded in 1960 and which has become a reference point for the Italian territory. Their Cococciola, with its scents of broom and jasmine, is fresh, savory and leaves a pleasant almond sensation on the palate. Their sparkling version is also worth tasting, which reminds of acacia flowers on the nose.  cococciola white wine

In San Vito Chietino the vineyards ofOlivastri Tommaso Farm, just 2 km from the Adriatic Sea. Since the first harvest in 2000, Tommaso's work has always been strongly oriented towards the vineyard through manual pruning and rigorous control of the vines to obtain excellent grapes. L'Airy in the name it celebrates the fresh sea breeze that caresses the vineyards and fully expresses the typical characteristics of this grape. In the mouth its remarkable freshness makes you want to drink more. Tenuta Ulisse white wine cococciola

It was born in the village of Crecchio in 2006 Ulysses estate with the intent of the brothers Antonio and Luigi Ulisse to seek absolute quality through respect for traditions and modern experimentation. The result is a technologically advanced winery. Their Cococciola highlights delicate citrus aromas of grapefruit and lemon, which are a prelude to a freshness and a pleasant and persistent finish in the mouth. And finally, it's worth trying Lu Sciablì di Marquesses de 'Cordano, whose cellar is built entirely of wood and is conceived as a meeting and sharing space, with a large tasting room that can accommodate up to 70 people. This Cococciola, after fermentation of the must, is left to mature for 12 months in terracotta amphorae. This allows to obtain an elegant wine, in which the typical varietal aromas of the vine are enhanced up to the scents of candied citrus fruits and dry pastries. white wine lu scialbi cococciola

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And what can we accompany Cococciola at the table? Definitely with antipasti di mare or delicate fish first courses, but also with raw fish. The good acidity and delicious flavor of this wine can be well combined with sushi to counteract the softness and fatness of this dish. And to go back to Italy try it with the mozzarella di bufala and then tell us!

Tags: cocciolaAbruzzo winesWhite winesAbruzzo wineWhite wineAbruzzo white winecococciola white winecococciola wine
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Michael Cerrato

Michael Cerrato

Salerno by birth, but Milanese by adoption for years. Sommelier FISAR Milano Duomo since 2019. The journey into the world of wine began with the Langhe and then became a backward journey to discover my roots through the wines and the many native vines of my homeland

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