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These days, to think that between prohibitions, limitations, difficulties in seeing friends and acquaintances, restaurants closed or almost, we are also approaching Lent, a period of penance and contrition par excellence, is frankly a bit strange. One would say that, while not wanting to embrace epicurean ideals of life, it is not even the case of wanting to really insist on hurting oneself. However things may be, we must also consider that Carnival comes before Lent and this can be a good opportunity for the "strange couple" of Sommeliers to join forces to recommend combinations that are actually more gluttonous than that is difficult.
Because this time we throw ourselves on the typical sweets of this period and, consequently, on a series of sweet wines that we recommend you enjoy together with your loved ones, grateful for the beautiful moments that life can give us even in critical situations. And let's start with our carnival proposals, not before a necessary clarification: all the combinations proposed are strictly regional except ... one, for which we allowed ourselves to cross over a few kilometers: the sweet wine we propose is a real gem and not we could have refrained from introducing it to you.
PIEDMONT : Friceu with Moscato d'Asti DOCG . Friceu are sweet fritters topped with raisins, flavored with lemon zest, and finally dusted with sugar. Moscato d'Asti, which we've already encountered in the pairings suggested for Christmas and Christmas Eve menus, is the inseparable companion for leavened desserts and pastries, as well as lending itself to numerous other combinations. This one from the Ca' del Baio winery is a simple and direct joy, both on the nose of yellow fruit, white flowers, sage, and musk, and on the palate, where it is delicately sweet, fresh, and fragrant.
LOMBARDY/EMILIA : Tortelli with Vin Santo di Vigoleno . The former are sweet, round, leavened fritters filled with custard or chocolate. The latter is a wine produced in very small quantities in Vigoleno (be sure to visit if you can), a medieval village located between the Val d'Ongina and Val Stirone, in the province of Piacenza. According to production regulations, it is made from grapes dried on vines and racks: Marsanne, Bervedino, Sauvignon, Trebbiano Romagnolo, and Ortrugo (at least 60%), but producers prefer to use native varieties such as Santa Maria and Melara. The color ranges from golden to more or less intense amber; the nose is intense, aromatic, and distinctive; the palate is sweet, harmonious, full-bodied, and velvety. As a guide to help you find your way around, we recommend the Alberto Lusignani Agricultural Company in Vernasca, in the province of Piacenza.
TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE : Apple fritters with Gewurztraminer passito . Apple slices are soaked in lemon, grappa, or liqueur, dipped in a flour-based batter, then fried, dried, and dusted with powdered sugar. Gewurztraminer is a grape variety that, in its pure form, has long since won over the palates of many enthusiasts, who pair it appropriately—and in some cases, inappropriately—thanks to its aromatic quality, the richness and variety of its aromas, and its easy, intriguing flavor. We recommend Elena Walch 's " Cashmere ," a wine for special occasions: an intense nose of dried and candied fruit, caramel, and citrus. It's a wine of great persistence and texture, with a pleasant sweetness perfectly balanced by acidity and a light tanginess.
UMBRIA : Crescionda Spoletina and Montefalco Sagrantino Passito . Crescionda is a baked cake made with milk, amaretti biscuits, and chocolate. The result is a dessert with a creamy center. Sagrantino, the grape variety and flagship wine of the Montefalco area in Umbria, is produced exclusively in the town that gives it its name, as well as in the municipalities of Bevagna, Castel Ritaldi, Giano dell'Umbria, and Gualdo Cattaneo. The passito version, which historically preceded the dry version, is a deep ruby color with purple highlights and tends toward garnet with aging. On the nose, it is intense and complex, with accents of red and black fruits, floral notes, and nuances of vanilla, tobacco, and cocoa. On the palate, it displays a perfect balance between softness and acid-tannic structure. We propose this from a young, emerging producer, Devis Romanelli, of the Romanelli Farm.
TUSCANY : Cenci accompanied by a glass of Vin Santo di Carmignano . Cenci are a collection of all those Carnival sweets found in every Italian region, known by the various names of chiacchiere, frappe, crostoli, bugie, and galane. A dough made with flour, butter, sugar, eggs, and an alcoholic component, such as grappa, Marsala, Sambuca, or Maraschino, is cut into strips, which are then fried and covered with powdered sugar. Vin Santo di Carmignano is the fruit of an ancient local tradition, made following a recipe passed down from generation to generation, just like Tenuta di Capezzana does . Its Vin Santo is produced in limited quantities, using the best and ripest bunches of Trebbiano and San Colombano grapes, which, after the harvest, are left to dry until February. The must is then cold-fermented during the winter months in characteristic caratelli (small oak, chestnut, and cherry barrels), where it ages for 5-6 years before being bottled. With an intense golden yellow color, it explodes with aromas reminiscent of orange peel and candied apricots, which are also found in the complex, rich, and persistent palate.
CAMPANIA : Migliaccio paired with a Costa d'Amalfi Passito . With ancient origins, Migliaccio, also considered the humble version of sfogliatella (of which it resembles the filling), is a dessert made from semolina and ricotta cheese that fills the home with its intense fragrance of lemons and oranges. Our pairing suggestion takes us to the Amalfi Coast with " Passion " from Cantine Giuseppe Apicella , a passito wine made from the area's native grapes, such as Falanghina, Biancolella, Ginestra, and Pepella. On the nose, notes of honey, candied fruit, and dried figs with a smoky touch are evident, while on the palate it is soft, fresh, and not cloying.
PUGLIA : Cartellate and Primitivo Dolce Naturale . With their distinctive crown shape, Cartellate are made with a wine-based dough and baked or fried, then dipped in vincotto (cooked wine) or fig must. We pair them with Madrigale , the Primitivo Dolce Naturale from Produttori di Manduria . Ruby red with purple highlights, this wine brings the sun and warmth of Puglia to the glass, expressed through notes of morello cherry jam and red fruits, spices, and hints of Mediterranean scrub. Balanced and intense, it envelops the palate with its silky tannins and smoothness.
SICILY : Pignolata and Malvasia delle Lipari . Pignolata are simply fried dough balls, reminiscent of Neapolitan struffoli, covered in honey and cinnamon, or with a lemon or chocolate glaze and decorated with colored sprinkles. This dessert is paired with Malvasia delle Lipari from Tenuta Castellaro . Made from Malvasia and Corinto Nero grapes, left to dry in the Aeolian sun for about fifteen days, this nectar enchants with its refreshing freshness and minerality, combined with a complex bouquet of aromas ranging from dried fruit and candied citrus peel, to honey and hints of Mediterranean herbs.
Our goliardic excursus among the carnival sweets ends here, but we guarantee you that we could have continued indefinitely. Our Peninsula is full of other confectionery treasures for this festival, indeed we do not want the regions that, for reasons of space, we had to leave out. But who knows if they are not the starting point for a new Carnival article!
By Claudio Accept and Michele Cerrato
