The first time I heard of the Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, a little ignorantly, I immediately thought that it was a grape from the famous Piedmontese town. Only later did I discover that Morro d'Alba is a small village in the province of Ancona, a few kilometers from the Adriatic Sea. But let's find out more about this grape from which a wine with truly characteristic and peculiar aromas is born! Let's start, first of all, from the name that seems to derive from a particularity of the grape, which once ripe, breaks and droplets of juice come out, which are reminiscent of tears. Current studies have ruled out the ancient belief that, due to this phenomenon, grapes could be subject to some disease. In reality it is simply a fragility of this vine.
There are, of course, other hypotheses on the name. For example, there are those who link it to the elongated shape of the berries, or those who want this grape to be distantly related to the Spanish Lacrima grape. A curiosity: the definite article can be placed before the name of this vine both in the masculine and in the feminine because both forms are correct. The origins of Lacrima di Morro go back in time. It seems, in fact, that it was already known by Federico Barbarossa in 1167, having drunk the wine produced while staying at the castle of Morro d'Alba. In the past it was widespread in central and southern Italy and could also be found in Romagna, Umbria, Puglia, as far as Campania, where it was cultivated by "marrying" the vine to a live stake, such as maple or elm. . The difficult cultivation and the ease with which it is subject to parasites have meant that its cultivation over time has been progressively abandoned in favor of more resistant and productive varieties until it remains only in the area of Morro d'Alba and some neighboring municipalities for a vineyard area of only about 10 hectares.
Only in the mid-80s did some winegrowers begin a work to recover this vine which was in danger of extinction, through the use of modern farming systems and the establishment of the dedicated DOC. Today the areas planted with vines are increasing in the territories, provided for by the Denomination, of the municipalities of Morro d'Alba, Belvedere Ostrense, Monte San Vito, Ostra, San Marcello and Senigallia and Lacrima di Morro d'Alba has become the third black berried grapes from the Marche region.
But we finally come to the wine that is obtained from the pure vinification of this grape, with a ruby red color with violet reflections. What is striking are its intense and deep aromas that clearly recall red fruits, such as strawberries and cherries, and wild berries such as blueberries and blackberries. But the other olfactory characteristic of Lacrima are the scents of violets and, in the best wines, of roses. Precisely because of these intense aromatic connotations, a steel processing is preferred, which gives us wines with freshness, discreet structure and soft tannins on the palate, with a propensity for aging, especially in the Superior version, up to 10 years, but even beyond, with surprising and interesting results. There is, of course, no shortage of expressions that mature in wood, which offer equally exciting sips to the palate.
At this point we just have to wander around cellars and make a stop in Morro d'Alba at the company of Stephen Mancinelli, which has always focused on the quality of its wines by controlling the quantities of grapes produced both with dry pruning and with a thinning of the bunches during the veraison phase. Here it is possible a real excursus on the Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, which goes from its more disengaged version that makes carbonic maceration to enhance its aroma, to the vintage or Superior versions, with intense aromas, up to the sparkling version according to the Classic Method, with a ruby color with garnet reflections and a fine and persistent perlage.
Staying in the municipality of Morro d'Alba, one cannot fail to visit Marotti Fields, historic winery that began its activity as early as the mid-1800s. The philosophy followed is that of agriculture with a low environmental impact, limiting treatments in the vineyard to the bare minimum. L'Orgiol, their Lacrima di Morro d'Alba in the Superior version, matures for 12 months in old barriques and reminds the nose of the herbs of the Mediterranean scrub.
You can then move to Belverse Ostrense at theLandi Luciano Farm, where the vineyards enjoy long hours of sunshine that alternate with cool nights, and breezes that come from the sea and that mitigate the temperature of the colder months. His Gavigliano 50% refines in small French oak barrels for a period of 6 months to give the glass a finer bouquet and greater harmony.
And finally, a stop in Montignano di Senigallia where Piergiovanni Giusti has created a cellar specifically for the vinification of Lacrima. There Rubbjano selection it is its reserve and comes from the grapes coming from the oldest vineyard of the company and which are harvested in three steps based on the achievement of the optimal state of ripeness.
And now we will all be wondering how and with what to drink the Lacrima di Morro d'Alba!
Served at a temperature of 16-18 °, it is to be tasted as an accompaniment to cured meats from the Marche region (such as the "Fabriano" salami or Ciarimboli, made with pork guts), with first courses based on meat sauce, or second courses prepared with white meats. Moreover, thanks to its velvety tannins, this wine can also be paired with a classic of the local tradition, such as the fish brodetto all'anconetana. The passita version is also intriguing to drink on aged or blue cheeses, or on dry pastries, or even on dark chocolate.
Prosit!
