The vine Teroldego, with ancient origins, it is the most important black berried grape in Trentino. Here it seems to have come from Valpolicella, in the neighboring Veneto, where it was known as Tyrol, named after the implant system with braces called tirelle.
Other interpretations, however, attribute to it a Tyrolean origin, for which the name Teroldego derives from Tyrolean Gold, literally Gold of Tyrol in reference to the high vigor of the grape. However, it seems that its origin must be sought in the name of the locality Teroldeghe, in the municipality of Mezzolombardo, where the wine has been mentioned in many notarial deeds since 1480. To be precise, a deed of sale mentions a payment of "two brente " from Teroldego wine.
Equipped with a medium-large cluster, with an elongated and pyramidal shape, and a medium-sized, round grape, with a bluish black, thick and very waxy skin, Teroldego has found its territory of choice in a handkerchief of flat land surrounded by high rock faces, better known as Rotalian plain, and in particular in the municipalities of Half crown, mezzolombardo e San Michele all'Adige. Although in recent times its cultivation has also extended to other areas, this vine seems to grow and give excellent results only in its area of origin.
It is precisely in the Piana Rotaliana, in fact, that unique and ideal pedoclimatic conditions are created for the full development of the potential of this grape. The river Noce brought with it alluvial debris composed of granite, porphyry and alpine limestone to this plain. Here the mountains fall steeply over the vineyards and the fresh wind, which comes from the nearby Valle di Non, creates a very particular microclimate, which maintains the aromatic substances of the grapes in hot and dry summers.
In 1971 the DOC Teroldego Rotaliano was established, whose production disciplinary provides for the types Rosato, Rosso, Superiore and Superiore Riserva. For all these, the vine must be vinified in purity. Given its high productivity, Teroldego requires considerable and rigorous control by producers if they want to make quality products. The resulting wines show a deep ruby color with purple reflections. From the glass starts a real explosion of aromas reminiscent of ripe fruit such as blueberry, cherry and wild berries accompanied by hints of sweet spices, pepper, cocoa and balsamic notes of licorice, cinchona and rhubarb. The sip is warm and embraces the whole palate with structure and intensity made dynamic by the good acidity. Teroldego can be drunk when young and is suitable for accompanying dishes such as baked lasagna or tagliatelle al ragù. If we can wait a few years and leave it in the cellar, then we can combine it beautifully with grilled meat in general and some game dishes.
If you are in Mezzocorona, the winery is definitely worth a stop De Vescovi Ulzbach, housed in an old house of 1600, restored in a suggestive and fascinating way. It is here that Giulio De Vescovi, descendant of a family of vine growers for at least 300 years, wanted to restore value to this grape through a work based on high quality. His Vineyard Le Fron refines at least 15 months in cement and ceramic and gives a refined and balanced sip, which refers to scents of geranium and balsamic puffs.
In Mezzolombardo we find one of the historical realities of the area, the Rotaliana winery, which has been operating for more than 80 years as a social cooperative and brings together a large number of winemakers in the area. A path characterized by respect for tradition, but with a focus on innovation, which has led the winery over the years from the marketing of only bulk wine to an offer made of quality bottled wines. Theirs Clesurae, whose grapes come from 50-year-old vineyards, matures for 24 months in French oak barriques before being bottled. The result is a wine with an important structure and velvety tannins, with a long and spicy finish.
Staying in Mezzolombardo you can then move towards Foradori, winery led with determination by Elisabetta, also called "the lady of Teroldego". Since 2002 the vines have been cultivated according to the dictates of biodynamics, while in the cellar they prefer vinification without the use of selected yeasts and refinements in amphora. The Morei Cylindrical for example, it remains in cylindrical terracotta amphorae for up to 12 months and its grapes come from a vineyard whose soils are made of sand and pebbles brought from the Noce river, which give the wine elegance, balance and minerality.
Finally, returning to Mezzocorona, the last stop at the winery of Andrea Martinelli, a real museum of wine history as its origins date back to 1400. In 1860 it passed to the Martinelli family who led it until 1985 when production ceased. It was only in 2010 that Andrea Martinelli moved from Rome to Mezzocorona and took over the reins together with his brother Giulio. Theirs Single Barrel it comes from the grapes of their best vineyard and is aged in a single 28-hectolitre French oak barrel for just under a year. It fully expresses the characteristics of a young Teroldego such as hints of red fruits and a fresh and pleasant drink.
Stock up on Teroldego and experience its versatility at the table! Try it to prepare a classic of Trentino cuisine such as risotto al Teroldego or to accompany potato tortej with local cold cuts, or to combine it with aged hard cheeses or game dishes such as hare and woodcock.